How to Change a Gearbox

This How-To guide will make more sense if you first watch our video; you can see all our video guides here.


This is a Powakaddy Freeway Gearbox. Please note that the style has changed slightly to a stronger model but they fit in the same way. This gear box is not intended for the Freeway fitted with a Brake. It requires the LSD version. It come complete with a fitting kit .

You can watch a video of how to replace this spare below:

Please note that the Coupling is not longer included with the Gearbox Fitting Kit. Unless you have the same style of Coupling as shown in the video on your trolley, you will need to purchase a new Coupling in order to fit this part.

Parts needed: new gear box for a Freeway (this will probably look different to the one you are taking off)

Tools needed: M6 spanner, hammer, nail punch, pliers, wire-cutters/pinchers, flat-headed screw driver

This works for: The Freeway only (NOT a Freeway II or Freeway Sport)

Why replace the gear box?

The gearbox can fail or become noisy. Example – you turn the knob for the trolley to go, and you can hear the motor working, but the axle doesn’t turn; this is sometimes accompanied by a rachetting noise.

How to fit the gearbox 

Step 1: disconnect the wires that run to the motor (2, top and bottom), they have a pull-off mechanism. On some models without brushes the wires run from the motor in the opposite direction, to the controller, just follow these and disconnect using the similar pull-off connection.

Step 2: using the M6 spanner remove the nuts that hold the gear box to the motor, remove the gear box and set aside.

Step 3: between the motor and the gear box is an item called a coupling spider, 2 white halves that lock together with a black 4-prong ‘spider’ inside it. As you pull the motor away, one of the white halves usually stays on the motor and the other half remains inside the gear box, leaving the black ‘spider’ attached to either half or it will drop off.

Step 4: remove the left-hand wheel and the left-hand clutch – the clutch is held in place by a pin on the frame side of the clutch, remove the pin with the nail punch and reserve.

Step 5: on the left-hand side of the gear box is a cover under which is a similar pin – knock it out in the same way and reserve.

Step 6: remove axle by sliding it to the right.

Step 7: at this point, it is worth examining the axle blocs – these are the 2 plastic parts on either side of the motor, on the main frame, and the axle runs through these. They should be round inside. But they can sometimes wear into an elliptical shape which allows the axle to tilt during use, causing undue wear in the gear box and early failure. If you find they are out of shape, you need to replace these as well to prolong the life of the new gear box.

Step 8: the gear box is held onto the beam by 2 rivet pins which have a star-lock washer and domed washer pushed over, locking them in place. They are the opposite side of the beam to the gear box. Tap the domed washer off using the hammer and the flat-headed screw driver. Remove the star-lock washers using the wire-cutters. You will get new star-lock washers and domed washers with the new gear-box. The gear box will now come away.

Step 9: put the new gear box back onto the beam, inserting the rivet pins to hold it in place. Fit the new star-lock washers and domed washers, using the pliers.

Step 10: insert the axle back in and put in the locating pins you took out earlier.

Step 11: you will have noticed that the new gear box is different to your old one as PowaKaddy have introduced a new strengthened gear box. With this, you will also receive a new style coupling spider in the shape of a star. Assemble this with the elliptical hole facing out. Push it into the gear box. Discard the old coupling.

Step 12: re-attach the motor to the gear box with the 6mm bolts.

Step 13: re-connect the wires to the top and bottom of the motor.

Step 14: replace the left hand clutch and put the wheel back on.